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Day Four |
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June 29,1998 |
Cadbury, Stratford, Cotswolds to Bristol |
Monday |
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We woke up late and repacked the van, we would
spend the next 2 nights at the Marriott in Bristol. Today was our day
to tour the Cotswolds and the Spencer castle in Northampton. We
turned on the morning TV (UKs Today Show) and
learned that it was the first anniversary of Princess Dis
tragic car wreck and funeral. The Spencer castle was to be opened to
visitors for the first and only time (10-pound ticket required,
available only thru scalpers). The town was total mayhem, shut down
to all car traffic with a fleet of shuttle busses running instead.
The on the spot reporter, interviewing pedestrians, was
enthusiastically describing the traffic snarls all over town and all
the way out into the pristine and scenic countryside.
We packed the car, got morning coffee, and replanned our
day on the spot. Jesse was not going to let go of Cadbury
World. We were already there yesterday I explained (but it
wasnt open!), we can go to Hersheys (I don't wanna go to
Hersheys) its just a chocolate factory (oh, good strategy on that one
Dave). Lyn got on the phone, and we reserved visitors passes.
We drove back the motorway to Birmingham and took the factory tour.
It was actually quite fun and Im glad that Jesse stood his
ground with us. We got free candy bars for our 20 pound entrance fee
and loaded up on souvenirs (the plush cocoa beans were too much to
resist). The place was crawling with schoolkids who, I should
mention, were still in school even though it was the end of June.
After Cadbury, we got some lunch as the tour and
goofing around in the souvenir shop took the entire morning. It was
nearly 2pm when we hit the motorway for Warwick Castle .
Warwick came highly recommended by many people that told us they
visited and really enjoyed it (and all the tour guides gushed about
it). It is an actual restored castle (not just ruins), from more
recent times (the 1500s). It is restored and polished and
filled with antiques and, as I understand, Madam Tussaud's waxworks
put figures in period dress in various rooms. We parked the car and
walked around the grounds. But the entrance fee was quite high, the
tour would take at least two hours, and we started to realize that
our favorite part of English history is the Norman, not the
Elizabethan or Victorian times. We really enjoyed the castle
ruins from 1100s much more than anything from the
1600s; frilly clothes, fancy mirrors and all. We enjoyed the
Warwick castle grounds, took pictures of the exteriors, and bought
some nice history books, postcards, and a poster. All in all, a very
nice time for us.
As 4pm approached, we took off for the
Cotswolds. This is an area in central England, famous for wool
production and trading in the 1500s and 1600s. It was a
sight of fabulous wealth when British woolens warmed the world. The
little towns are magnificent, if 300 years past their prime. I found
a strange eeriness with so many buildings seemingly occupied by so
few people. The tourist and collectible trade is small and seasonal
and week-end oriented. The last 400 years has obviously seen a exodus
of workers to greener pastures.
We had seen a Rick Steve's PBS episode about the area, and we were
excited to see the little towns full of picturesque homes and
churches, Chipping Chester in particular. We drove thru Stratford-upon-Avon
(again) then toured the Cotswolds from the van. Lovely hills,
pockets of English cottage homes, entire cities built centuries ago
with the golden yellow limestone from the local quarry, and all of it
surrounded by the greenest trees and fields. You could stop at every
corner and take a picture. Chipping Chester has been revived as a
tourist and shopping destination, like those little
antique towns in New England. It was completely delightful to stand
at the very same direction sign (Stow-on-the-Wold, turn right), that
we had seen in Rick Steves video just three weeks before we left. We
did some window shopping (most stores were already closed), but not
enough to interest us. It was here that Lyn found a Bobby
policeman and cajoled him into posing with Jesse for our favorite
photo of the entire trip. We still repeat her idiom laden
conversation, verbatim, with the Bobby: Excuse me, she
said, could I be a bother. The bobby turning (with dry
Brit wit) replied Yes, maam, I imagine you could.
He was a good sport and we love the picture. He was the kind of
good-will ambassador (if somewhat reserved) that we found throughout
our enjoyable trip.
We found a pub and had dinner (before the kitchen closed, we were
starting to learn). It was in one of the zillions of stone buildings
that peppered the area and made it resemble a storybook. When we
finished, we drove the van south out into the countryside and headed
toward Bristol. We enjoyed the scenic views, stopped to see random
ancient structures (seemingly just plopped in farmer's fields) and,
of course, took plenty of pictures. As darkness approached (10pm) we
realized that we would have to surrender Glouster (for our next trip
to England') and headed directly instead for Bristol. We arrived
around midnight, getting lost only twice this time, dragged in all
the suitcases again (a 2-day stay!) and went to sleep easily.
This was the night that I got a frantic V-Mail from work when I
picked up my messages from work. I was told that very important
news awaited me and that I must call and 'speak
directly' to learn about it. This couldn't be resolved with a simple
voice-mail or two. We ended up playing phone tag for 2 days (with 12
hour offset) and, of course, in the end it could have all waited
until I got home from the trip.
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