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Day Ten |
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July 5, 1998 |
London via Tube and on foot |
Sunday |
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We woke up late (9:30 or so) and tired. We
learned that the Marriott concierge room (free breakfast snacks) was
not available on week-ends at Heathrow.
Oh well. We hit the van, caught some breakfast sandwiches take-away,
and ate them on our way back to the same tube station we used
yesterday (Ruslip Garden). This was a piece of cake to find, since I
had marked our path on the GPS, and the trail was easy to follow and
the west side roads were becoming familiar to us on the second day.
We took the tube and transferred once, ending up in Charring Cross
station. The goal was to head out to Greenwich observatory, and to
get a hoot out of putting one foot in each hemisphere (Im
sorry, Im a geek). It turns out that the station we saw Friday
night (and marked on the GPS) was a train station, and getting there
required us to transfer from tubes to trains. This is an easy trick,
the second time you do it.
We ended up spending 20 minutes or so orienting in Charring Cross
station, while everybody caught another quick sandwich. Its hard to
explain the train station operations to an American, but it was
awfully close to a US airport. There were television monitor and
those electronic direction boards directing you to one of a dozen or
so platforms. Maybe if I grew up in New York or Chicago I would have
been a little more at ease. The station is the starting point of
dozens of departures that criss-cross each other on the way out of
town to the south west. What I mean to say is that all the trains
from Charring Cross eventually make it to Canturbury and on to Dover.
However, they each pass thru a different mix of intermdiate stations
and stops. If you get on the wrong train, you may skip your station.
Also, the instructions to the Greenwich station referenced a
different station, with a 3 minute offset. Trains to that station
left every 30 minutes and, sure enough, in a few minutes our train
was listed and we boarded.
This train followed the quaint English tradition of not having
anybody collect or check tickets. It is some huge honor
system where you buy a ticket (often from a kiosk) and just
walk on board. There are many signs reminding you of the huge fines
for being caught on board without an appropriate ticket. We were only
once asked to produce one by a uniformed agents (doing a random spot
check while the train was in motion). Again, it all seemed so
foreign. Within 10 minutes we disembarked from the Greenwich station,
crossed over the tracks to the exit gate, and stepped out into the
now familiar street that where we had just parked our car two days previously.
Greenwich
obervatory is located in a large urban park which was
packed with families, teen-agers, bike riders and people strolling
(it was Sunday, July 5th). I became intrigued when we sat on a bench
to rest, plan, and take in the scene. I noticed that the family and
kids were all playing ball, in twos and threes and tens and tweleves
(nothing unusual about that). However, those six 16 year olds
werent kicking a football, it was a rugby ball and they,
indeed, dropped down and did a scrum. The dad pitching to his 5 year
old son, swinging an oversized plastic play-bat wasnt playing
baseball, the stand behind their little play-sized home plate
identified their game as cricket. Sure enough, the rest were kicking
soccer balls, picnicing and laying on blankets, enjoying the lush
English grass and rolly English hillside around the Observatory.
We hoofed it around and took it all in, then walked off toward the
light-rail station to head for the museums downtown. We needed to
walk thru the University district and the pubs were cute
but we were not hungry. We stopped in a small tourist shop and filled
our backpack with souvenirs. Team jerseys and fan-towels were
available for every primier leage soccer team. Posters and hats,
thimbles and statues, were all available and (for once) affordable.
We continued toward the river, passing (without stopping for) the
famous Cutty Sark clipper ship. The appeal of walking
around the deck of old ships still eludes me to this day. We entered
a hundred year old pedestrian tunnel and actually walked under the
Thames. While first intriguing, this evenutally felt a lot like the
passageways between the concorses in the Atlanta airport. It was fun
to watch the people, but other than that, it was just a long walk in
a musty tunnel.
On the other side, we boarded the 'light rail'
train back into London, transferred to the
tubes (a half-mile undergrond walk), and went on to the British
Museum. It was a couple block walk from the destination tube station
to the museum, and we walked past the sign identifying the London
office of the University of Florida, what a hoot! At the museum, I
headed directly for the two things that I went to London to see.
First, the Rosetta stone. This is the stone, discovered in Egypt by
Napoleon's troops that had the same passage written in 3 ancient
languages. Since one language was known, the 'Rosetta Stone' enabled
scholars to finally decrypt the other two. To this day, if you don't
already know, the term "Rosetta Stone" is used as an idiom
to refer to any object that caused confusion to become clear. It
sits, almost anonymously, in a small corner of the museum. I could
not help but sit in wonder in front of it.
Secondly, the statuary plundered from the Acropolis in Greece. At the
time of our visit, and recurring periodically, the Greek Ambassador
or the Minister of Culture will implore the Brits to return these
treasures to their rightful home in Athens. The statues were
displayed along one wall of a large, oversized room, held aloft on
clear pedistals and hidden piping (seeming to float in midair),
spaced apart as they were when resident in the Acropolis. What was
most wonderful was that they were at near eye level, instead of
hoisted up 50 feet in the air at the top of ancient columns. We had
previously been to the cheap Acropolis knock off in Nashville
Tennesse so we were acqauinted with the statuary and their story. It
was just a little bit awe inspiring to cast my eyes upon the real thing.
After the museum, it was to a pub for a little
snack and back to the tubes to head for home and to rest our aching
feet. We had walked more in the last two days then we had probably
done so in the previous two years!
While
I had not developed any blisters (yet), it was definitely time to
head back to the hotel. The tube ride was uneventful, with several
transfers. When we stopped at the last station, I had the presence of
mind to snap a picture of us with the famous red 'underground' sign
in the background. Just remember: "Mind the gap". We
returned to the Ruslip Gardens station, and retrieved our car that
had been parked for free (it was Sunday) for the last 10 hours. We
followed the GPS markers back to the Heathrow Marriott.
At the hotel, we rested our feet, cognizant that
it was our last full day in London. Tomorrow (Monday), we would skirt
the city and head off to the north, onto Lincoln and York. After
eating our snack, I felt recharged. I was alone in this regard. I had
wanted 'one-last look' at several famous places that were not easily
accessible by tube and foot. We agreed to split up, and I took the
van by myself back into London.
I found the Marriott Regents Park by the zoo, the one that had been
so difficult and unco-operative toward us, and then drove by the
entrance to the zoo itself. Drove again through Picadilly Circus, all
lit up after dark. Passed by Trafalger square and the various
downtown palaces (Buckingham, St James, Kensington) and shot back out
to the east (looking for but never quite making it to 'Abbey Road').
I spun around by the London Docks, back to Greenwich, out toward
Crystal Palace but couldn't find Harrod's or the Albert and Victoria
museum and never made it all the way down to Gatwick. That was my
curse that night, I was driving with my GPS but I had left all my
maps back at the hotel. So I took one last spin around the south side
of London, followed the motorway back to the Marriott and arrived
back at the hotel just as I ran out of steam.
It was off to bed (after listening to everybody complain about their
aching feet), and we were all asleep in two minutes flat. |